Sri Lanka packs an unusual amount into an island the size of Ireland: surf beaches, tea plantations at 2,000 metres, ancient cities, leopards and elephants in the national parks, and a train ride that regularly tops lists of the most beautiful in the world. It is also one of the best-value destinations in Asia once you are on the ground. The complication is the weather, which changes depending on which coast you are on. This guide explains how to time a trip, what to budget and how to get around.
Best time to visit Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka has two monsoons that hit opposite sides of the island at different times, so there is always somewhere with good weather.
- December to April: dry season for the west and south coasts (Colombo, Galle, Mirissa, Unawatuna) and the hill country. This is peak season, with the highest prices from mid-December to mid-January.
- May to September: dry season for the east coast (Trincomalee, Arugam Bay, Pasikuda). Arugam Bay’s surf season runs May to October. The west and south get rain, but often in afternoon bursts.
- October to November: the inter-monsoon, with showers possible anywhere. Prices are at their lowest and the island is green.
The cultural triangle of Sigiriya, Dambulla, Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa is drier than the coasts and can be visited year-round, though it is very hot from March to May.
Getting there: flights to Colombo
Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB) is 35 kilometres north of Colombo near Negombo. SriLankan Airlines flies direct from London, several Indian cities, the Gulf, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Tokyo and Melbourne. Emirates, Qatar Airways, Etihad and Turkish Airlines offer one-stop connections from Europe and North America, and IndiGo and Air India run cheap short hops from southern India.
Two things affect the fare more than anything else. The first is the Christmas and New Year period, when prices from Europe can double. The second is routing: a one-stop through the Gulf is often cheaper than the direct London flight, and connecting through Chennai or Kochi can be cheaper still if you are already in India. Use the flexible date view when you compare flights to Sri Lanka and check a few days either side of your ideal dates.
Most nationalities need an Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) before arrival, applied for online in a few minutes. Sri Lanka has run visa-free trials for several countries in recent years, so check the current rules for your passport before booking.
A classic two-week route
Most first-time visitors follow a loop that covers the highlights without too much backtracking:
- Negombo or Colombo (1 night): recover from the flight near the airport.
- Sigiriya and Dambulla (2 nights): climb Sigiriya rock at dawn, visit the cave temples, and take an evening safari in Minneriya or Kaudulla for elephants.
- Kandy (1 to 2 nights): the Temple of the Tooth, the botanical gardens and the start of the hill-country train.
- Ella via Nuwara Eliya (3 nights): the train from Kandy through the tea country is the highlight of the trip. Book the observation or reserved seats a month ahead in peak season. In Ella, walk to Little Adam’s Peak and Nine Arch Bridge.
- Yala or Udawalawe (1 night): leopards in Yala, elephants in Udawalawe. Udawalawe is less crowded and cheaper.
- South coast (4 nights): Mirissa for whale watching from November to April, Unawatuna and Hikkaduwa for beaches and snorkelling, and Galle Fort for a day of colonial streets and cafés.
With less time, cut the wildlife stop and one beach night. With more, add the east coast in the northern summer or the quieter north around Jaffna.
Getting around
- Trains: cheap, slow and scenic. First-class reserved seats on the Kandy to Ella line sell out weeks ahead; second-class unreserved is the same view for a fraction of the price if you can stand for part of the journey.
- Private driver: the most common choice for a two-week loop. Expect US$50 to US$80 a day including fuel, with the driver arranging their own accommodation. It removes all logistics and the drivers usually know good local restaurants.
- Buses: the cheapest option by far, frequent, and fine for shorter hops between towns.
- Tuk-tuks: for everything local. Agree the fare first or use a ride-hailing app in Colombo and the larger towns.
- Southern Expressway: the highway from Colombo to Galle and Matara cuts the journey to under two hours by car or express bus.
What Sri Lanka costs
Per person, per day, excluding international flights:
- Budget: US$30 to US$50 with guesthouses, buses and trains, and rice-and-curry meals at local restaurants.
- Mid-range: US$80 to US$150 with boutique guesthouses or small hotels, a shared private driver and a safari or two.
- Comfortable: US$200 and up with heritage hotels, a private driver and tea-estate bungalows in the hills.
Entry fees for major sites are priced for foreign visitors: Sigiriya is around US$30, the national parks US$25 to US$40 plus jeep hire, and the Temple of the Tooth a few dollars. These add up over two weeks, so budget for them separately. Hotels on the south coast in peak season can rival European prices, which is where it pays to compare Sri Lanka hotels across several booking sites.
Practical tips
- Carry cash outside the cities. ATMs are common in towns but not in the hills or smaller beach villages, and many guesthouses prefer cash.
- Cover shoulders and knees at temples and remove shoes and hats. Turning your back on a Buddha statue for a photo is considered disrespectful.
- The sun is strong at altitude and on the coast. Ella and Nuwara Eliya are cool at night, so pack a layer.
- Rice and curry at lunch is the cheapest and often the best meal of the day. Try hoppers, kottu and fresh seafood on the coast.
- Whale-watching boats from Mirissa leave early; book the day before and take seasickness tablets if you are unsure.
Why Sri Lanka works
Few destinations combine beaches, mountains, wildlife and history within a few hours’ drive of each other, at prices this reasonable. Time the trip for the coast you want, book the hill-country train early, and compare flights on flexible dates. A two-week loop is one of the best trips in Asia for the money.